Another fashion week in Paris has concluded, the AW 15/16 took place just after the one in Milan and just before the fabulous and sophisticated Haute Couture.
Here are the looks and designers that have topped our list of favourites.
1. Dries Van Noten
Inspirations from history and Eastern elements amalgamated together in Dries Van Noten’s AW 15/16. Inspired by southern China’s Miao people, the collection’s decorated coats and shirts, which sported silver jewels and ornaments, highlighted the cultural heritage of Van Noten’s homeland, Belgium. Models wore quilted blazers layered over coats and apron-like kilts worn over trousers . An inspiring yet emotional collection that felt energetic and sophisticated.
2. Louis Vuitton
Artistic director Kim Jones paid tribute to British designer Christopher Nemeth, using four original prints from his archive as key motifs throughout the A/W 15/16 line-up. Hand-drawn rope-like patterns were exquisitely crafted onto outerwear, trousers and knits. Jeans were needle-punched with luxurious indigo cashmeres, and outdoor parkas were blocked with orange panels, epitomising the refined sportiness of the collection.
Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri took inspiration from the Ballet Russes in Paris and the Beat Generation in San Francisco. The designers joined forces with artist Esther Stewart, whose signature geometric paintings influenced graphic patterns on overcoats, bomber jackets and knitwear. Sharp tailored suits came in traditional heritage fabrics, luxurious shearlings elevated outerwear, and patch pockets decorated knits and coats.
Military and 1970s rock ‘n’ roll references mingled harmoniously throughout Lucas Ossendrijver’s new collection for the French label, with generous proportions and feminine elements dominating. Looks were layered beautifully: knits were worn over shirts, which were layered over knits, highlighting the 1970s vibe. Coats worn over parkas and bomber jackets over cropped styles cemented the idea of mixing sophisticated tailoring and casual functionality.
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s new collection fused London punk culture with this season’s outdoors theme. A gorgeous palette of olive green and earthy tones was enlivened by bright orange, silver, daring blues and berry tones. The designers explored the concept of survival – emergency blanket-style fabrics and safety slogans brought a humorous update to outerwear and knits.
Taking inspiration from mineral landscapes and concrete, Alexander Wang presented a sharp collection of slick tailored pieces and neat wardrobe staples. Seamless constructions and hidden closures updated tubular coats, tailored separates and jackets, while artisanal techniques were used to elevate sweatshirts and other sporty items. The effect was minimalist and precise.
A subtle folk flavour punctuated Junichi Abe’s latest offering. Wardrobe staples were updated with Native American-inspired and blanket-stripe patterns – a blanket coat had suede utility pockets patched on, while nomadic shawls were styled with matching knits in stripe and Navajo-style designs. Playful tailored suits and sweatshirts came in blocked colours and fabrics. Vibrant pumpkin orange and light blue enlivened the autumnal palette of grey and earthy tones.
The ones to watch
22/04_Hommes blended whimsy and functionality in a beautiful collection inspired by Oscar Wilde’s style. Acne‘s straightforward shapes were cool and mildly subversive. Sacai played with shape and texture to create a collection of wardrobe staples with a twist. Études mixed playful prints and bold colours with tailoring and sportswear looks.